Lucca, a lush historic Italian town of narrow streets and an iconic walled city, is one of the most dog-friendly cities I’ve visited in Europe – it might even give Paris a run for its money. Of course, there’s no way to accurately quantify this claim. But during the two days I spent in this town, a gem in the Tuscany region, I counted more pups with their people than I’ve seen outside of pet festivals.

Recently, I flew from Canada, through Germany, to Pisa, Italy and stayed at a villa in Tuscany, giving me easy access to Lucca, Pisa, and Florence. Dogs accompanied people in all three places, so clearly these were my kind of cities. But the dogs of Lucca specifically left a special paw print on my heart.

Unfortunately, I wasn’t in Italy with my dog because I don’t fly with my cargo-sized spaniel. Missing my pup, every and any dog caught my attention. What I noticed was that most canines strolled easily and confidently with their people as though navigating the crowds of Lucca was a daily occurrence.

Dog-friendly Lucca

While in Lucca, Italy, I witnessed remarkably less pulling than my crazy spaniel exhibits and little barking or confrontations. It appears being taken along – often – helps socialize Italian pups, or maybe they simply pick up on the laid-back Tuscan vibe and go with it.

“People used to have kids,” a taxi driver taking me from the Lucca train station to our edge-of-town villa told me. “But now they have dogs. Dogs everywhere. My son has a dog,” he said. “No kids, though.”

I couldn’t turn a corner in Lucca’s walled city without encountering a leashed pup or two (or three) strolling along with its person, completely at ease with the crowds. The walled city is where most visitors (and some locals) flock and for good reason: this incredible area is seeped in history dating back to the 16^th and 17^th centuries.

Unlike other European cities that demolished fortifications like this for modern expansion, Lucca preserved its walls. And, ideal for dog-walkers, the city turned this arched fortress into a tree-lined, four-kilometre, pedestrian walkway that circles the old town. Within the ancient walls, streets of commerce, history, churches, museums, and cafes … so many cafes … pulse with visitors walking, shopping, and dining. Many with their dogs.

The first day I was there, strolling the streets dogless, a street artist had carved from a pile of sand two life-sized lab-like dogs curled up together. Likely, he knew this choice of subject would attract attention from the dog lovers of Lucca, and land him a few extra Euros.

Lucca’s Walled City

Inside the walls, a radial (rather than grid) system of stone-lined streets characteristic of ancient Roman design reminds visitors that Lucca’s history dates to 180 BCE when it flourished as a Roman-era colony primarily thanks to the silk trade. Lucca remained independent for centuries until Napoleon annexed it in 1805 during his reorganization of Italy under French control. It wasn’t until 1860 that Lucca became part of the kingdom of Italy.

The Roman era left its mark on Lucca in several ways, including the design of the streets and the oval former amphitheatre, now Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, just outside the ancient city walls. The piazza is built on the foundation of a Roman amphitheatre dating back to the first century.

Dog-friendly Dining and Shopping

Today, the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, surrounded by towering buildings, many residences and guest rooms, is a central meeting place for groups looking to find outdoor café tables for coffee, lunch, or dinner – and yes, your dog can join you at the table. In fact, most outdoor and even semi-outdoor restaurants in Lucca permit dogs.

And guess what? Gelato isn’t just for people anymore. One outlet I found sported a large poster in the front window promoting its gelato for dogs. And yes, an excited dachshund who’d clearly visited before was wagging in anticipation as his human exited the shop with a pup cup.

Via Fillungo is the main street running through Lucca’s walled city, and you’ll find a plethora of modern stores (some brand names) selling clothing, bags, housewares, and yes, gelato. Dogs are permitted inside most stores – many stores have pet water dishes outside the door.

Where Dogs Can’t Go

Places in Lucca that dogs can’t enter are the ancient religious sites including the majestic San Michele in Foro (which I stumbled upon by accident thanks to challenges navigating radial streets) and the Cathedral of San Martino, on the edge of the walled city.

However, museums aren’t entirely off limits. The Puccini Museum permits service dogs, and according to the Dogs Welcome Italy website, “Small dogs can enter the house if held by their owners. Large dogs can remain in the garden of the Villa, tied up or in the company of the Museum staff.” Lucca is the birthplace of composer Giacomo Puccini (La Boheme and Madame Butterfly), and his childhood home is now a museum dedicated to his life.

Taking your dog along in Lucca, Italy, is common. Dining out doesn’t have to exclude Fido, which is awesome if you’re an overseas visitor like me, missing my trusted travel companion but thrilled to be in the company of so many well-loved fur-babies.

In Short: Dog-friendly Lucca, Italy

• Within Lucca’s walled city, pet dogs are welcome almost everywhere, including stores, cafes, some restaurants, and even the Puccini Museum if you’re able to carry your pup.
• Dog-friendly gelato is a thing
• Roads are cobblestone, which heats up in the summer, so plan accordingly.
• Many shops leave dog water bowls at the door.
• The four-kilometre walk along the city wall attracts dog walkers and offers a great view of Tuscany’s green spaces and towers.
• Leashes no longer than 1.5 metres are mandatory and so is picking up poop.
• Yes, you can take your dog on the train – Pisa is a 20-minute economical train ride away and Florence is 1.5 hours. However, if your pup isn’t in a carrier, you’ll need a ticket for the dog too.
• If you’re in Lucca without your dog, you’ll be able to get your dog fix at every corner.

Writer bio: Sherri Telenko has been a professional writer for decades and a travel writer for the last two. She’s a member of TMAC (Travel Media Association of Canada) and Dog Writers Association of America and travels almost weekly with her canine companion, Victoria. Contact Sherri at dogtrotting.net here. All written content is original, written by a person, and based on experience and research. Please subscribe!